Cape Elizabeth, Maine
Portland Head Lighthouse
Fort Williams is my go-to day trip destination! I must have been here a hundred times and it still does not diminish the serenity of this coastal environment. This peaceful haven is a large (and very popular) park just outside of South Portland on Shore Road.
The Portland Head Lighthouse is the main attraction of the park, as well as the defensive fort, and kind of attracts tourist like bugs to a zapper. There is a gravel cliff-walk that runs parallel to the shore line and the secret to escaping troves of summertime travelers is to venture off the designated path. (duh! 😛)
Just along the first lookout there is a dusty trail that leads down the cliff and to the rocky shoreline hidden below. Very few people venture past the pebble lined beach and onto the bedrock outcrops to the North of the lighthouse.
This shoreline contains some of the most astounding geological formations I have ever seen. Rocks that resemble undulating viscous liquid were formed by the tumbling of rocks and crashing of countless waves.
Quartz tunnels are formed when pressurized magma shoots up a crack in the bedrock during seismic activity. The molten rock cools quickly and crystallizes in the process.
The geological history that is recorded in Maine's bedrock covers more than half a billion years.
The geological history that is recorded in Maine's bedrock covers more than half a billion years.
The beach cliffs are composed of jagged angular formations of blue hued slate that loom over two tumbled rock coves which are separated by the crashing surf and thriving tidal pools.
To tell you the truth I hardly glance at the lighthouse when visiting Fort Williams...😳
This rocky shoreline is extremely maneuverable with sneakers or hiking shoes and during low or high tides. The extensive erosion of the beach caused by tumbling stones over time has left a wide strip of land that is free of seaweed and troubling slippery wet rocks.
My favorite thing to do when visiting Fort Williams, other then staring at the radical geology, is climbing up this sturdy cliff to enjoy a packed lunch with family. Just remember to take your trash with you, Fort Williams is carry in/carry out.
There is a gradual slope on the right side of the cliff that makes it easy to scale and then scoot over until comfortable. (Just watch out for sea spiders in the cracks!)
A little further down the coast there are large outcroppings of rocks along the waterline that create countless tidal pools. Some are covered in seaweed, as well as the occasional agitated gull, but others are dry, perfect for getting a close up look at a mini ecosystem. Snails and minnows as well as the occasional snapping crab call these cozy pools home.
I recommend climbing down the cliff trail onto the main shoreline if you are visiting Fort Williams to experience the timeless beauty of the Maine landmark that is to often goes over looked. The experience of being surrounded by thousands of years of history recorded in solid rock is breathtakingly humanizing and gives you a fresh perspective on our perception of the passage of time.
I would avoid Fort Williams on holidays or during peak season weekend hours if you are looking for a quiet place to meditate. Although if you are looking for a fun and open spot to meet up with friends or family this park is for you. There is a sand beach for swimming, large grassy slopes for playing Frisbee or flying kites, and the gardens along the slopes are planted with native plant/wildflowers. A few local food trucks are usually situated within the park but sometimes sell out during lunch time. (pick up lunch before 3pm if you really want a lobster roll!)
Carry-in/Carry-out: Bring a plastic bag for trash if you're planning to have a cliff-picnic or a luncheon on the beach. Fort Williams is extremely well maintained, litter free, and does not have any trashcans.
🖤 Annie
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Here is some more information about the historical significance of Fort Williams from Portlandheadlight.com:
"Portland Head has long protected Portland and the adjacent area. Cape Elizabeth residents were deeply committed to American independence from British rule. In 1776, the new Town of Cape Elizabeth posted a guard of eight soldiers at Portland Head to warn citizens of coming British attacks.
In 1787, the General Court of Massachusetts (the Massachusetts legislature) provided $750 to begin construction of a lighthouse.
In 1790, when the United States Government took over the responsibility of all lighthouses, Congress appropriated $1,500 for its completion. The original tower measured 72' from base to lantern deck and was lit with 16 whale oil lamps. It was first lit on January 10, 1791.
Construction of the first Keeper's Quarters began in 1790 as the result of a contract signed by Massachusetts Governor John Hancock. A one story dwelling built to replace the first keeper's house was erected in 1816. It measured 34' x 20' with two rooms, a cellar and a porch in the rear.
By 1864 a 4th order Fresnel lens and a cast iron staircase were installed. By 1865, the tower was raised 20' and a 2nd order Fresnel lens was installed. A portion of this lens may now be seen at the Museum at Portland Head Light. Except for a period between 1883 and 1885, this lens was in the lighthouse until 1958.
Late on Christmas Eve in 1886, the three masted bark Annie C. Maguire struck the ledge at Portland Head. Keeper Joshua Strout, his son, wife, and volunteers rigged an ordinary ladder as a gangplank between the shore and the ledge the ship was heeled against. Captain O'Neil, the ship's master, his wife, two mates, and the nine man crew clambered onto the ledge and then to safety . The cause of the wreck is puzzling since visibility was not a problem. Members of the crew reported they "plainly saw Portland Light before the disaster and are unable to account for same." The current Keepers' Quarters building was constructed in 1891 as a two story duplex. Until 1989, it was home to the head and assistant lighthouse keepers and their families.
Portland Head Light was the responsibility of the United States Department of the Treasury from 1790 to 1852 when management was transferred to the US Lighthouse Board. The Board was reorganized into the Bureau of Lighthouses in 1910. In 1939, aids to navigation became the responsibility of the United States Coast Guard. On August 7th, 1989, Petty Officer Davis Simpson struck the US flag for the last time at the decommissioning ceremony recognizing the automation of the lighthouse. The property was leased in 1990 to the Town of Cape Elizabeth. Three years later, through the efforts of United States Senator George Mitchell, the property was deeded to the Town. The United States Coast Guard maintains the actual light and the fog signal, but the remainder of the property is managed by the Town of Cape Elizabeth."